I actually had company at the small creekside primitive campsite. A young man, Joe, was practice camping for a longer hike he hoped to do later in the summer. It was very nice to have someone to talk to. In the morning, we had breakfast and coffee together before packing up and heading our separate ways. I was going back out to the Montour trail that would take me through Pittsburgh. This trail was mostly road-riding through a grimy industrial area. I met another cyclist who was just finishing up a week-long tour. He offered to show me where to get on the GAP since it was on his way. Pittsburgh has a very rich history with heavy industry and steel mills. As we crossed the Monongehela River, the smell from a US Steel plant was very strong. The cyclist said this is mild. Back in the 70's, the air and water pollution was overwhelming. There were giant barges of coal lined up in the river docked outside the very large steel mill. There was a thick, sour overpowering stink in the air and I was happy to get to the other side of the river.
Trail view
Unpaved GAP
Soon I was on the GAP (Greater Allegheny Passage) trail. This 150-mile rail trail is unpaved and runs from Pittsburgh, PA to Cumberland, MD. It is considered one of the premiere cycling trails in the US and has been on my bucket list for a while. Yesterday, at the bike shop, I was told the beginning of the GAP trail was another 50 miles. I was very surprised to realize that it wasn't even 20 miles and wondered where they got their information. It was 9:30 in the morning and I was approaching the B&B where I had a reservation. This was embarrassing because I certainly could have made it yesterday. As it was, I arrived too early for the owners to be ready for me. I also didn't want to waste a day's riding and ended up canceling my reservation altogether. The owners were very nice about it, charging me only 1/2 night's rate. What a crazy set of circumstances.
Waterfall on the GAP
Mileage marker
Rain was forecast for later in the afternoon and the B&B owners thought I wouldn't have any problem finding another place to stay. They gave me a recommendation as well. I trundled off feeling very excited to be riding this famous trail. I got to the 1st town with accommodation, West Newton, before noon. I could see weather was coming in the distance and decided to keep going pushing my luck hoping to get to Smithdon before the rains. The trail goes along the Youghiogheny River (The Yock) with terrific views. A mile after leaving West Newton I felt the 1st drops and within another 3 miles, I was riding in a full-on rainstorm. The GAP trail surface is crushed limestone which turns into a slurry muck when wet. The wheels on my trailer were flinging mud everywhere. By the time I arrived in Smithdon, the trailer was a mess. I had mud all over me, including my hair.
Day 48 Ride Video
The recommended B&B in Smithdon was locked up tight. It didn't appear to be open for the season, yet. Across the street was a Lion's club where locals were drinking and watching tv. Covered in mud, I asked for help. Everyone sprang to action, making calls all over town, to see if they could find a place for me to stay. There was a hose out back that I used to clean my trike and trailer. Unfortunately, everyone struck out and it was recommended that I stay in a hotel next to the big highway. There was a very steep climb but it wasn't far to find a decent hotel where I would be safe for the night. Wow did a shower feel good.
Messy Myrtle
Muck everywhere
Water bladder
The rain continued all night long. Even though it stopped in the morning and there were promising blue skies, I was skeptical about the condition of the GAP trail. I used garbage bags to protect my trike putting a big one over my seat and a smaller one around my side seat bag. I used the hoodie of my windbreaker under my helmet to keep dirt out of my hair. Today could be very messy!
Day 49 Ride Video
I made my way down the big hill and onto the GAP trail which was very wet and slippery. I rode along the crown of the trail expecting this is where it would drain 1st. I had trouble with traction at low points where I water was pooled. The trail was slow going. With all the rain, there was lots of water run-off into the Youghiogheny River. Sometimes there were actual water falls. The trail is designed to drain and after a couple of hours the riding became easier. Tonight, I made a reservation at a B&B in Confluence to make sure I had a place to stay. The house overlooked the river and I was the only person staying. It was lovely. The owner even poured me a glass of red wine.
Thanks Anna Marie for the wine
There was another rainstorm overnight and I took my time getting ready in the morning. Again, I used garbage bags over my trike seat and side seat mount bag to protect against flinging mud. This system seems to work pretty well. The temperature was much higher today and the sun dried out the trail quickly. The scenery was very nice with more waterfalls and lots of spring flowers. Coming into Meyersdale there was a lot of commotion. There is a major train line that goes through town. Somehow, someone using a backhoe to do track maintenance got too close to the tracks and the train hit the backhoe flipping it over. Luckily, no one was hurt but the track was shut down for hours because of the ensuing investigation. All the main roads going into town were closed. Someone from the visitor's center showed me how to get around the stalled train. Tonight I was camping at Family Festival Park. Last weekend was the big maple syrup festival and I think it's the only time the park is used. The weather was perfect for camping but the park grass wasn't level at all. I was allowed to camp on the festival stage but some people had already set up there so I found as level a spot in the grass as I could. Another couple of bikers showed up as well. The park charged $20 and it had showers, water, electricity, shelters, and was right in the center of town. This had been a very eventful day.
Day 50 Ride Video
GAP through town
Scenic waterfall
Drying out gloves on top of my tent
My last day on the GAP trail was the most exciting for me. My friends Cherie and Don live in Cumberland, MD, and had offered to host me. Don drove Cherie with her 2-wheel e-recumbent to Festival Park. He also took my trailer back with him in the truck so I could ride more nimbly. It was a fantastic ride. We crossed from Pennsylvania to Maryland, summited the Eastern Continental Divide, and crossed over the Mason and Dixon line. Once we crossed the Eastern Divide, the ride was all downhill. Yeehaw! Some of the views were fantastic looking down on the valley below. We stopped in Frostburg to see the wonderfully whimsical sculpture artworks. Cherie showed me all over Cumberland to the end of the GAP trail and the start of the C&O trail that continues into Washington DC.
With Cherie at a view point
Lovely views looking down on a valley
Eastern Continental Divide
Pennsylvania/Maryland state line
Mason & Dixon Line
Whimisical Frostburg
With Cherie at the start of the C&O trail
Day 51 Ride Video
I spent 2 very comfortable nights with Cherie and Don at their lovely home in Cumberland. It was nice to relax and be with friends. They also own hair salons and I had a spa day getting a cut and color as well as a pedicure. This was long overdue and felt great.
No comments:
Post a Comment