Fredericksburg to Love, VA

 

Garmin Stats and Maps

Mineral, VA
Palmyra, VA
Charlottesville, VA
Afton, VA
Love, VA

Getting on the TransAm

Myrtle says 'C'mon, let's go!'

I continued on the Atlantic Bike Route 1 south for about 30 miles. The roads were very nice and smooth with little traffic. Yesterday, I had a section with a lot of traffic and there really wasn't enough room on the road so this was a big improvement. There was also no wind and temperatures got up to the high 70's. I had lots of climbing today. Many of the hills were 8-10% grades. The riding was constantly up or down. 

Weathered barn

Historic markers

Today was a big day for me on this tour. I got on the Trans America Bike Route 76.  This would be the turnaround point and from now on I would be heading west. Heading home. Today may have been one my biggest mileage days as well. I did 68 miles with about 3,000 ft of climbing. 

Day 57 Ride Video

The TransAm is the most popular cross-country bike route. It is also the oldest bonafide route. The TransAm was designed by the Adventure Cycling Association for the bicentennial in 1976. A few hundred riders made the inaugural ride. There were a few groups. Some rode west to east and others east to west. The route is designed to ride west to east to take advantage of the prevailing winds.

Pavillion at Mineral Firehouse

Tent setup without fly

Mineral Firehouse

Because the route is so well established there are lots of services. Many parks, community centers and churches are open to cyclists. Tonight I was staying at a firehouse in Mineral that has a big field with a covered pavilion for cycists to use. There is no fee to stay at these places. When I arrived, another cyclist was there with his tent already set up in the grass. This tourer was from Switzerland and had started in Yorktown to do the TransAm east to west. This was the 1st touring cyclist I had seen in a long time. Seeing more cyclists was something I had looked forward to when getting on the TransAm.

There are huge fires in Alberta Canada that have been burning for many weeks already. The smoke from these fires is noticeable in the air. The skies are hazy and I can feel irritants in my throat and eyes. Not good.

Bridge is out!

I have both the digital and paper maps for the Trans Am bike route. The paper maps are from 2019 but I expected the digital maps to be updated more frequently, especially with road closures. Today, I came across a bridge being replaced and had to find a detour. This was in an area with big lamb farms and I knocked at a farmer's door to get information. The farmer cheerfully gave me clear directions and I was on my way. This detour probably added 6 miles to my planned route. Luckily, I had an easy day. The roads today were very smooth and quiet. The ride was a joy.

Day 58 Ride Video

I had a funny thing happen when I came to a place called Kent's Store. It's the actual name of the town and I thought I going to see a market. The only thing in Kent's Store is a post office. Very funny!

Palmyra Methodist Church

I made my way to the Palmyra Methodist church. No one was there when I arrived. There was a phone number for the pastor who explained where the key is to let myself in. The church has a kitchen, bathroom and separate room for cyclists. I put my sleeping pad and bag on the floor and made myself comfortable. No one else showed up.

Sleeping pad set up on the floor

Myrtle and trailer settled in the front room

The next day's ride was very historic. I went passed James Monroe's Highland House as well as Thomas Jefferson's Monticello. The area was very upscale with lots of manicured lawns and horse farms. Unfortunately, I couldn't go into either house because it isn't safe to leave my stuff unattended. These tourist attractions are well known for professional thieves. People see the beautiful estates and are lulled into a false sense of security letting their guard down. Hopefully, I can return with my truck and rv trailer to visit these wonderful historic homes.

Which way?

Hotel room in Charlottesville

The traffic really picked up coming into the university town of Charlottesville. There were no campgrounds and I made my way to a hotel.

Day 59 Ride Video

The scenery so far in Virginia has been very beautiful. The roads are in good shape but there are no shoulders. I am constantly checking my rearview mirror to see if traffic is coming up behind me. I've only had a few people express annoyance at my being on the road but many drivers pass on blind corners which makes me very nervous. Occasionally on these blind corners, cars coming toward me are just about run off the road. Many times it seemed impossible that the cars didn't crash but, somehow, they never did. I really wish people would drive more safely. I'm very surprised that the bike route is on such narrow roads that feel unsafe.

The next day was overcast with lots of smoke haze from the Canadian fires burning. The winds are stronger today and I was hoping it might blow the smoke out. There also lots of 10-14% grade hills. Up and down all day long on very narrow country roads. 

Cookie Lady's House

aka Afton Bike House

I made my way to Afton and the Cookie Lady's house. June Currie was one of the 1st people to take care of cyclists on the Trans Am bike route back in 1976. She started out offering a hose for water and freshly baked cookies. After a few years, she actually opened her home for cyclists to stay. She died many years ago but her daughter has kept the house open. I called to make sure I could stay and Nicole said there are 7 couches and to just pick one to sleep on. The Cookie Lady's house is on a very steep road that leads to the Blue Ridge Parkway. After a lot of huffing and puffing, I was happy to stop for the night. 

So much stuff

Floor, ceiling and walls

Even bikes on display

Again, I was the only cyclist at this stop. The house is chocked full of memorabilia. There must be hundreds of postcards cyclists have sent to the house after finishing their ride. There are tire tubes, bike parts, stickers, and flags from all over the world as well as sweaty and stinky socks, shorts, bandanas, and shirts. Once I had a look at all the 'stuff', I started to see that the house wasn't just dirty, it was filthy. It hadn't been cleaned in probably years. The couches were more than well-used. I found a broom and dustpan to sweep out the front room of spider webs and dirt balls. I also spent some time cleaning the kitchen and bathroom. I cleaned enough to put down my sleeping pad. There was no way I was going to sleep on any of the disgustingly dirty couches.

Day 60 Ride Video

The Cookie Lady's House is probably the most famous stop on the Trans America Bike Route. I was sad to see it in such poor condition. I wish Adventure Cycling could buy the house and turn it into a biking history museum. 

Getting on the Blue Ridge Parkway

Myrtle is ready for climbing

The next day, I continued climbing up the steep hill. Within a few miles, I was on the Blue Ridge Parkway. This is also a well-known biking road. There is no commercial traffic allowed. Today was the Friday before Memorial Day and I wanted to be at my destination before the road was crowded with RVs pulling trailers. 

Day 61 Ride Video

The ride was gorgeous with lots of climbing. The road goes along the spine of the Blue Ridge Mountains with views looking down on the lush Shenandoah Valley. The road was beautiful but there was also lots of smoke haze obscuring the views. 

Tonight, I was camping at a brand new campground in Love, VA. I was probably the 1st camper on my site. The Love Ridge campground asked $60 to set up a tent in a site with no electricity or water. They did have a very nice bath and kitchen house. Everything was brand new and sparklingly clean. Unfortunately, even though the site was smooth surrounded by beautiful woods, it wasn't level which I find very annoying.

 

Vienna, VA to the TransAm Bike Route

 

Garmin Stats and Maps

Mt. Vernon, VA
Stafford, VA
Fredericksburg, VA

Bikes@Vienna

With Tim and Beth

I left Vienna after 5 nights saying goodbye to the mechanics at Bikes@Vienna and Tom's house. The route followed many of the cycling paths I had taken a few days earlier on the trike tour to Washington DC. I followed the Mt Vernon trail along the Potomac River on a very nice day. Maybe 5 miles from the town of Mt. Vernon, I met an older man cycling on the trail. He was very friendly and we struck up a nice conversation. After a couple of miles, he asked if I would like to stay at his house in Mt Vernon. Walt is 80 years old and doesn't carry a mobile phone. He didn't have a way to let his wife know of his invitation and he had never done this before. Janet was outside the house when we arrived and it took a bit before she understood what he was asking. Once she understood, she immediately invited me in and we hit it off right away. She, certainly, didn't expect to be hosting a stranger overnight and was a great sport about it. Their home is very comfortable in a beautiful old neighborhood and they offered me my own room and bathroom. Myrtle and the trailer were locked up securely in the garage. They made me a delicious dinner and we yakked the night away. This was a very special encounter and I will always remember Walt and Janet's generosity and kindness.

Day 54 Ride Video

Elevated bike path over marshland

Beautiful scenery

Walt describing where we are

In the morning, after a hearty breakfast, Walt escorted me to the Atlantic Bike Route that I would take south to meet up with the Trans America Route.  We rode right passed George Washington's Mt Vernon home. There is so much history in this area. It was wonderful to ride with someone who knows where they are going. I couldn't believe my luck to run into Walt - what a nice guy! Most of the day's ride was on cycling paths or in bike lanes. This was terrific. I did almost 60 miles with 3,000 ft of climbing to an RV park in Stafford that allows tent camping. It was a few miles off the route.

After breakfast with Walt and Janet

Trail signage

Atlantic Bike Route

I was given a site that didn't have electricity or water. There was a big thunderstorm forecast overnight. I spotted a large covered pavilion and asked the owners if I could set up under it. No problem. The site I was in didn't have any level areas and everything would be wet in the morning. Being set up under the pavilion was going to be much more comfortable and there was also electricity so I could charge up my gadgets and e-assist batteries conveniently.

RV park camping before I moved under the pavillion

Day 55 Ride Video

Overnight, the storm was quite loud and violent but I was warm and dry. The skies were blue in the morning but the roads were still wet. I'm using Adventure Cycling Maps and they only give the narrow route information. Getting off the route, like I was, meant trying to figure out where I could get back on. There was a market listed on the map and I made that my 1st destination.  Once I was back on the route, it was well-marked and I had no problem finding my way. 

Squirrel in the campground

Camp setup

KOA camping

My seat covered

Day 56 Ride Video

I continued on through Fredricksburg which is a big town. There was lots of traffic. A few miles beyond is a KOA that has tent camping. The prices for setting up a tent were high. I have a KOA card that I use for RVing and I had racked up enough points to bring the price down to $5 from $60. Much better. The site was in a level grassy area and also had electricity and nice showers were available. I had ended the day fairly early. Sometimes to go further means doing a bigger mile day than I am comfortable with. Sometimes it's ok to do less than 30 miles.

C&O, W&OD Trails into Washington DC

 

Garmin Stats and Maps

Brunswick, MD (C&O Towpath)
Hearndon, VA (Split map)
Vienna, VA
Washington DC Tour with Local Trikers

Lovely Cherie and Dangerous Don

Loading up the trike, trailer and e-Pheonix

Ready to Roll

Dangerous Don and Cherie showed me a lovely time in Cumberland, MD. We explored sweet local towns, ate good food and I got to do laundry and relax with friends. Being locals, I could ask them about the C&O path. I had heard many differing opinions. Cherie said the best thing would be to drive to the smoother part of the trail. The C&O closest to where it connects to the GAP is rough and not as much fun to ride. She also wanted to ride with me. With Don's help, we got the trike and trailer loaded in the truck bed and then added Cherie's 2-wheel e-Pheonix onto the bike rack to drive to the smoother part of the C&O towpath. We parked at the Antietam trailhead. There is so much Civil and Revolutionary War battle histories in this area. 

C&O towpath view

Potomac River water level was high

We had a terrific ride along the towpath. The canal water level was very high and it was moving fast too. The path itself is unpaved and quite narrow. There are lots of interpretive signs explaining the history. The towpath was originally used by mules pulling barges full of goods up the canal. Occasionally, there are re-enactments where you can see how it worked.

Historic sites

Harper's Ferry train tunnel

Cherie avoiding a big fat snake on the trail

The path winds through forested sections and almost always has a view of water. It also crosses the Appalachian trail at Harper's Ferry. There is a railroad bridge with a pedestrian walkway across the Potomac river into the historic town. The trail was very busy at this section. I was really enjoying riding with my friend. Cherie and I made our way to Brunswick and had a good lunch at Beans in the Belfry which is an old church converted to a cafe. There is a campground close by and we went to check it out. This is a private campground and the cost was more than I wanted to pay. I had seen some primitive campgrounds along the trail and decided to ride back to the truck with Cherie to see if any of them would be comfortable. After a lovely 40-mile ride, I said goodbye to Cherie. She suggested I check the weather because the trail wouldn't be as nice to ride in the rain. Her suggestion was timely as a big storm was forecast for the evening and then lots of rain the next day as well. I remembered the private campground in Brunswick and a big covered picnic area where I could set up my tent and be protected from the rain.

Civil War history

Which way?

After riding this section of the C&O towpath 3 times, I ended up back in Brunswick. Camping on cement isn't the most comfortable but at least I would be dry. After getting set up, a big family showed up to camp next to me. There were lots of kids and dogs and loud music. Ugh!

Day 53 Ride Video

Thank goodness I have earplugs to drown out most of the noise from this family. I was really surprised they wanted to stay and camp in the rain. The next day I heard from lovely friends, Ann and Fred, who I know from riding together in Minnesota. They are in the area and offered to take me out to lunch. We spent an enjoyable few hours together. I told them the route I was thinking of taking and they offered to drive me to check out the bridge crossing over the Potomac into Virginia. They weren't happy with how narrow the road is and made plans to pick me up in the morning. 

Outside Bean in the Belfry with Ann and Fred

Better campsite next to the river

Once back at the campground, I was able to move my tent. The rains had stopped and I found a lovely site right next to the river. I didn't ask anyone if it was ok, I just took the site. This was much, much better and made paying at this private, more expensive campground worth the price. I had paid $30/night to set up a tent. They also offer cabins for $100/night that don't have a bathroom or electricity. There is a porta-potty behind each of the cabins. The shelter where I originally set up did have electricity but the family I camped next to was very noisy. 

Ann and Fred giving me ride

Starting my ride from Lovittsville

In the morning, I was ready when Ann and Fred came to drive me over the Potomac. On the other side of the bridge, the road goes up climbing for over a mile. They decided to take me to the top of the hill dropping me off at a community center in Lovettsville. This was a very generous thing to do and it was great to see this delightful couple again.

Following signs to the Washington & Old Dominion

Canal bridge art

Affectionately known as the 'Wood'.

Today would be a very social day. After saying goodbye to Ann and Fred, I followed a Google Maps bike route to the Washington and Old Dominion Trail (W&OD) getting on at Paeonian Springs. I took this trail into Leesburg where I would meet up with 3 other trikers; Mary, Linda, and Nancy. This was so much fun to meet up with local trikers. Linda had been scheduled for foot surgery very early in the morning but the air conditioning didn't work in the operating room. Since her surgery needed to be rescheduled she was able to ride her trike - in a boot. We rode together into Hearndon where we met up with triker Rick and had a nice lunch. From there, Rick escorted me into Vienna where I had a place to stay.

Meeting trikers Mary, Nancy and Linda

Warm Showers host Tom

I'm getting to the halfway point of my tour and made an appointment at a recumbent shop in Vienna (Bikes@Vienna) to have some maintenance done. Myrtle has been a champ and there wasn't anything urgently needed. I have a Rohloff speed hub and the cog is showing signs of wear. I could probably make it back across the US but decided to be proactive and have the cog replaced. I also haven't had any punctures but figured putting a fresh rear tire on would also be a good idea. When I was planning for this stay in Vienna, I checked with Warm Showers (a web-based site where people open their homes to cyclists) to see if anyone was available. Turns out a guy who worked at Bike@Vienna is on Warm Showers and accepted my request to stay. All I knew about Tom is that he is a bike mechanic. I didn't expect him to live in a big, stately home in a fancy part of town. Tom said the people at the bike shop vouched for me as he handed me the keys to his house and left to go camping for a week. I actually only met Tom for a 1/2 hour and now I had his house to myself.

Tour of Washington DC Video

Meeting Mary, Beth and Nancy in Vienna, VA

On the 'Mall' with mounted police

US Capital building

 

Beth saying 'hi' to regal police horse

Lincoln memorial

I spent 5 nights at Tom's house. Having this time to myself was a real gift. This time gave me a chance to relax and run errands. A highlight of my time in the area was doing a ride with local riders Mary, Nancy, and Beth. They took me on a trike tour of Washington DC. This was a very special ride and we had a blast together.  We took many trails from Vienna into the Capital. I loved seeing so many very famous monuments like the Lincoln Memorial, Smithsonian, Arlington Cemetery and riding on the mall. There were big groups of veterans touring the capital and we met the mounted police on the mall. There were mounted police from all over the US. The weather was perfect and I enjoyed every minute of this ride. Washington DC is terrific for cycling and I would like to go back and explore more of it.