1st Week of the Moto-Myrtle USA Tour

Garmin Data and Maps:

Day 1 - Needles to Oatman

Day 2 - Oatman to Kingman

Day 3 - Kingman to Peach Springs

Day 4 - Peach Springs to Ash Fork

 Day 5 - Ash Fork to Flagstaff

Needles Route 66 mural

Route 66 - Needles, California

I have never publicized any of my previous tours and the preparations for this tour have been far more complicated than any other tour. The reason for publicizing, is mostly, that there are some big differences with this tour that I thought people would be more interested in than previous tours. As for the timing of the tour, we are learning to live with Covid and I simply didn't feel comfortable touring during the height of the pandemic. I do now. Some other distinguishing features of this tour are that I'm 64 years old, doing this tour solo, and self-supported. This tour is in the US, 9,000 miles, and will probably take 10 months. I'm looking forward to checking off lots of bucket list rides such as Route 66, the Katy trail, GAP, and TransAmerica routes. Another big difference from previous tours is I'm using e-assist and, I'm guessing, lots of people are interested in knowing what touring with electric assist is like. I've been touring all over the world since 2007 and I've never worked so hard to prepare for any of my previous tours.  Luckily, I find all the detailed research and decision-making to be rewarding. I have been very public about how I prepared for this tour. The interactions with followers, supporters, and fellow trikers have been a lot of fun.

Video of Day 1 - Needles to Oatman

To start the Moto-Myrtle USA trike tour, my friend Joni drove me, my trike, and the trailer to Needles, California. This is the closest point on Route 66 to where I've been staying over the winter months and where I left my RV trailer and truck for the duration of the tour. Big thanks to Joni for all her help and generosity!! (A lot of people have commented that I'm missing the California section of the route by not starting in Santa Monica but I'll be doing this part of Route 66 at the very end to get back to my RV trailer and truck.) The drive to Needles was 3 hours and, even though we started out early, I probably made my 1st crank pull at about 10 am. The journey of 9,000 miles begins with the 1st turn of the crank arms. As I started through Needles on Route 66, I was very nervous and felt like this tour was the craziest thing I have ever done. Needles is on the border of California and Arizona. The border between states is the Colorado River where I lost an hour crossing the bridge. I had completely forgotten about the time change and this bit into my 1st-day plans. I had spent quite a few hours planning out my ride and stopping points for the first 4 days. Those plans went out the window within the first 30 minutes of my tour start. 

Getting Myrtle set-up

The day was beautiful with clear, bright blue skies, temps in the 60s, and light winds. This area is known for big winds and I felt fortunate to start off in such perfect conditions. Once out of the bigger city, traffic quieted down, and I began to enjoy cycling more. I ended my first day in Oatman after riding 28 miles with 1500 ft of climbing. 

Ever since I first started talking about this tour, I have made a big point about needing to camp. I have even made videos going over my camping and cooking gear. Hotels in the US are pricey and, for me, a budget buster. There are places in Oatman to camp but, looking at the weather app on my phone, I saw the overnight temperature was going to dip into the 20s. This is too cold to camp and something I had not thought about. The only hotel option was a cabin for $150 - ouch! The first cabin they showed me was a 1 bedroom but the water was turned off. They gave me a 2 bedroom for the same price. Even though this is more money than I can realistically afford to spend every night, for the first night, I was very happy with the decision. Going online and seeing all the supportive and enthusiastic comments on Facebook, Youtube and emails was a nice boost as well. 

A huge surprise at the end of the ride was getting a notification of a big and generous donation for the tour from my bike club in Portland, Oregon - the Pacific Northwest Recumbent Cycling Group. I've been a member of this cycling club for over 15 years. They are very active and responsible for putting on the Recumbent Retreat on the Oregon coast every September. The Recumbent Retreat is the oldest recumbent event in the country and this year will be the 25th anniversary. It is held every year at Ft. Stevens State Park the weekend after Labor Day. This park is located right where the Pacific Ocean meets the mighty Columbia River. It's absolutely gorgeous with miles and miles of cycling paths. The lighted bikes parade is legendary. I love this club and was completely blown away by their generosity. In fact, it made me cry. 

I have been receiving lots of support,  enthusiasm, and well-wishes for this tour from many, many people all over the US and even the world. If you would like to contribute please check out the links below. I am very grateful for any donation no matter how big or small. Many thanks to everyone!!

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Click here to purchase Travels By Trike merch to help defray tour costs. Show love for your favorite turtle!!

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Trailer open in the cabin

Myrtle enjoying extra room in the cabin

I slept well even though the cabin was quite cold. There was no heat in the bedroom and I used my own sleeping bag to be warm enough. The water also had dirt in it. I used a pan on the stove to make oatmeal and, at first, thought the pan hadn't been used in a while and rinsed it out. But no, there really were actual dirt clumps in the water. Very strange!

Outside my rustic cabin in Oatman

Desolate landscape

Sitgreaves Pass, the 1,000 ft climb out of Oatman

I got packed up and on the road out of Oatman by 8 am. There is a 1,000 ft climb out of Oatman that is famous for having 191 curves and hairpins. I probably spent an hour climbing and then 10 minutes on the descent. There was no traffic on this section of Route 66 at all. I have a Garmin Edge cycling computer with the Varia radar rear blinky that tracks vehicles as they approach and pass. In the first 20 miles, 18 vehicles passed me. I had a man on a motorcycle ride alongside to tell me how visible I am. He said he could see me for over a mile. Another lady stopped to hand me $5. This was a beautiful and fun ride. 

Just a little dusting of snow

I loved the scenery

191 curves up and over the 1,000 ft climb

Myrtle is enjoying the view

My idea was to ride into Kingman and then look at the map to see where I could end the day. Turns out, there isn't anywhere to stay within 50 miles beyond Kingman so that was my stop for the day after 30 miles and 2100 ft of climbing.

Day 2 - Oatman to Kingman, AZ

The room had poor heat and not enough blankets. Again, I used my sleeping bag. In the morning, I set up my cooking gear to make coffee and oatmeal. I also had fresh blueberries which handle the road very well.

Hackberry

Not much out here

Historic eastbound Route 66

Myrtle and the trailer in the room

Day 3 was going to be a big test. I had 63 miles to cover with more than 2800 ft of climbing. On such a big day, I need to know with certainty that a place to stay is available. There were only 2 options. One was a tribal lodge in Peach Springs. They quoted $165 for a single room! I called the second option which is 12 miles east of Peach Springs and booked a room for $99. I knew the wind was going to be howling as well. It started out blowing 10-15 mph as a tailwind. Just because a wind starts in one direction doesn't mean it won't shift during the day or the road won't turn away from the wind. I did a battery swap at a cool, typical Route 66 roadhouse stop. The guy running the store, Rubin, loved the trike. He has a Youtube channel, Valentine Station, and I did a short interview with him. We exchanged Youtube tips and stories of struggles as well. The wind became much stronger and turned into a massive tailwind. I think it was blowing around 30 mph and pushed me right along. My next stop was at the tribal lodge which has a restaurant. There was nothing special about this lodge. In fact, there are railroad tracks 100 ft behind the lodge and when trains pass they sound the horn. I would have been very upset to spend $165 to hear trains passing so closely and loudly all night long. While waiting for my take-out food order, I met a man and his wife who are trikers from Illinois and follow my Youtube channel! You can't imagine how small this place is and what a coincidence is was to run into fellow trikers. Very fun!

Burma Shave sign

The shoulder wasn't in good repair but the road was fine

I can't remember the last time I did such a big-mile day, especially with so much climbing. The tailwind and e-assist made all the difference. The Grand Canyon Caravan Inn is very old, tired, and worn out. I got the Beatles room which has pictures, records, and posters of the Fab-4. The bathroom had an Abby Road sign on it. I actually had to remove snow from in front of the door to get my trike and trailer inside. Luckily, there were no trains. There was also no food and I was very happy to have planned ahead and picked up a take-out meatloaf dinner.

Day 3 Video - Kingman to Peach Springs

After another cold night where I used my sleeping bag to stay warm, I was surprised I didn't feel any muscle soreness from the big ride the day before. As I started pedaling to Ash Fork, I could feel my legs were tired but they didn't ache. I stopped into a grocery store in Seligman to get supplies where I got some apples and grapefruit. My idea for food on this tour was to pick up veggies and some cooked sausage and then use my cooking gear to make my meals. I was shocked there were no vegetables in the grocery store. None! So much for my idea. 

Seligman photo-op

Close up

I'm using the Adventure Cycling Association maps for this ride on Route 66 to Missouri. The ACA is a bike advocacy group that makes terrific maps with everything listed that a touring cyclist could need. 5 miles before Ash Fork, Route 66 merges with I-40. Interstate 40 is Route 66. In Arizona, interstate cycling is permitted. The shoulder on this stretch was horrible. It was as rough as a rumble strip which I think is extremely dangerous for cyclists. For 5 miles I can put up with just about anything but I was very happy to get off of I-40 getting checked into another old, tired, worn-out hotel room. There is no grocery store in Ash Fork. There are no restaurants either. I went to a trading post at a nearby gas station travel center to pick up 2 6-inch subs. One for dinner and one for lunch the next day. Food choices along this stretch of Route 66 were a big disappointment.

Day 4 - Peach Springs to Ash Fork, AZ

In the morning after another cold night using my sleeping bag for warmth, I checked the ACA map to see how far I needed to be on I-40. I went into a panic when I saw that Route 66 is on I-40 all the way into Gallup, NM. I didn't know how I was going to ride on such a wretched shoulder for more than 280 miles. The shoulder into Ash Fork was so rough I couldn't ride faster than 8 mph - and I have full suspension. I figured I could ride 20 miles into the next town of Williams. There is 2,000 ft of climbing and if the road surface continued to be terrible I could call it a day there. I was considering riding into Flagstaff the next day and probably renting a truck or van into Gallup, NM. I couldn't think of a good reason to continue riding on such a poor road surface.

I was surprised that maids only expect $2

Much improved I-40 shoulder

I-40 is Route 66

I was immensely relieved when I got back on I-40, at Ash Fork, and the shoulder was smooth and wide. It was like a gift.  Interstate riding isn't my favorite but it's also not all terrible. The road surface is usually smooth with a very wide shoulder. The interstate will offer all services including phone service. The hardest part of interstate riding, for me, is the constant vibration and loud semi-truck traffic noise. I have air-pods with noise canceling which help a lot. One of the biggest concerns while interstate riding is the off-ramps require special attention when crossing over to remain on the shoulder. Most traffic is local and drivers don't always use indicators. Traffic speeds are so fast, you can't make any assumptions and need to be certain the off-ramp lane is clear before crossing over. There is also no privacy on the interstate. The bush I picked to pee behind was more of a suggestion of privacy than actual privacy. There is also lots of oversized cargo transport. Years ago, these trucks had a lead car to warn that the cargo will take up more than a lane of traffic. Now there is only a follow car. The oversized cargo will often spill beyond the white fog lane and even over the rumble strip. I ride as far to the right in the shoulder as to not be surprised by encroaching cargo. I also miss the photography/video opportunities of smaller roads and experiencing quaint rural life. I certainly can't fly my drone on I-40. There is also lots of tire wire that is very sharp and a big puncture threat. But, for the most part, I feel completely safe riding on the Interstate.

Gateway to the Grand Canyon

Locked outside the Safeway grocery store

I got off the interstate in Williams where there was a Safeway grocery store.  Being able to pick up fruit and veggies made me happy. Williams is a very quaint historic town that is known as the gateway to the Grand Canyon. It is a bit of a boutique town with lots of hotels and restaurants. From there I continue on to Flagstaff. I-40 continued to go up. It was very cold and windy. I wore a beanie, a gaiter over my face, gloves, rain pants, and a rain jacket. I also wrapped my feet in plastic bags for more warmth. There was lots and lots of snow accumulated on the side of the highway. It was impressive and I was happy the sun was shining.  I made a mistake thinking I was going to cross over the Continental Divide on this ride. I did cross over the Arizona Divide at 7,335 ft. I had never heard of the Arizona Divide before this ride. I later learned I have a few more days riding into New Mexico before climbing again to 7,200 ft to get over the Continental Divide. I'm looking forward to that and being able to descend into warmer temperatures.

Beautiful mountain view

Big climb for the day

Feet in baggies for warmth

This was a tough ride and I was exhausted arriving in Flagstaff and getting checked into a Day's Inn. I picked this hotel because, on Google, it advertised a rate of $40/night. Of course, the cheapest rate they gave me was $77. Getting off my trike, I saw that everything was covered in mud and muck. This had never happened before and I think the wind turbulence from the passing trucks on I-40 made the snow melt spray back at me. There was mud on my jacket, Garmin, e-assist controller, handlebar bag, and on both sides of the trike as well as the trailer. The front desk lady wasn't surprised by the mud and offered me a bucket. She showed me where a water spigot was to rinse everything off. The mud actually rinsed off easily. I'll probably need to do this after every ride on I-40. 

Day 5 Video - Ash Fork to Flagstaff

The winds were blowing strongly as I arrived in Flagstaff and the forecast called for even stronger winds the next day. I decided a rest day was in order and felt like I had already accomplished a lot on this tour. Not a bad week, not a bad week at all.