I really enjoyed Ciudad del Carmen but it was time to move on. The ride leaving the Isla del Carmen was easy. A couple of hours of pedaling and I was crossing the bridge off the island to Isla Aguada which isn't on an island at all. The big bridge across to Isla del Carmen is one of the longest bridges in Latin America. It is also being redone so all traffic has been diverted to one side. On the map the area looks fantastic. I was worried that the town was going to be touristic with expensive hotels. Very funny! This town was just another gritty, dusty, shabby, poor pueblo. Until the 1980's, the only way to visit Ciudad del Carmen was by boat. Putting in the bridge to the island was a big deal. Unfortunately, Isla Aguada has never been able to take advantage of all the traffic coming through the town. I checked into the Iguana Cabañas which was probably the most expensive place in town, for $40. The owners gave me a huge round cabaña. I didn't notice until later that the owners were really drunk. It was only 2 in the afternoon when I saw them out by the pool drinking with other guests. All men. I get nervous when I see a group of men getting drunk especially when I don't know anyone else. It occurred to me that these guys were probably going to be passed out before long. I tried to lock the door to my cabaña but the dead bolt didn't work. It wasn't possible to lock the door. The owners were so drunk I didn't want to talk to them so I took my chances and left the room unlocked. I don't have much that is of value to anyone else and always carry my most valuable things with me, like my passport, if I think I need to.
Approaching Isla Aguada
Pelicans on pylons
Tricycle plant seller
I forgot to get money before leaving Ciudad del Carmen and this hotel, like many in Mexico, only accepts cash. There is only one ATM machine in Isla Aguada, located in a glass enclosed kiosk next to the check-point at the end of the bridge, which was just big enough for one person to stand in.
Pile of fishing nets
I was really hungry after my ride and stopped for a couple of tacos. Then I went to explore the little town. I especially wanted to walk on the beach. There were lots and lots of fishing boats but not much else. All the fish restaurants close early in the afternoon so my only option for food was going to be more tacos. I took some photos, flew my drone and called it good for the day returning to my cabaña.
Plaque commerating the new bridge in 1982
Walking the beach of Isla Aguada
Isla Aguada from the air
Fishing village at sunset
I was still concerned about the drunks and not being able to lock my door. The cabaña was so big I brought Myrtle inside and parked her in front of the door. Trike security!
I actually slept well and got up early expecting to ride 60 miles which is a huuuggee day for me. Because it is hotter and more humid this time of year, I had been warned that a lot of hotels shut down. It's possible there are more hotels than what is listed on Google and I'll find out as I ride. Today's route was gorgeous. I had views of the Gulf of Mexico on my left and the huge Laguna Terminas on my right. I stopped many times to take photos and fly my drone. There were lots of pelicans which someone told me migrate here from California for the winter. I expected to need to ride all the way to Champotón but discovered the little town of Sabancuy.
Trying out 'follow me' mode
This town is in a gorgeous setting. I had to cross a bridge over a large estuary to enter. It was so beautiful. Given the natural beauty of the area, I am so surprised that the towns aren't touristic. In fact, given how everyone stared at me as I rode through town, I don't think they get any tourists. I pulled into the Hotel Plaza Sabancuy and got a room with ac for $16. It had everything I needed but everything was very old. This hotel was probably built in the 80's and nothing has been upgraded since. I went to the small mercado for lunch and had a wonderful bowl of soup. It was very hot in the afternoon and I didn't spend much time outside.
Wonderful veggie and chicken soup at the mercado
Drunks at the Cabañas
The next morning, I went back to the mercado for breakfast. This time I had a barbecued beef dish that was cooked and served in foil. It came with various salsas, veggies and corn tortillas so I could make my own tacos. This was delicious but kind of a strange breakfast. Since I wasn't sure if there were any towns along the ride today, I also got some empanadas for the road. I crossed the bridge back to the highway and, again, the ride was fantastic. There were mangroves, pelicans and many views of the ocean. I stopped so often to take pics it took almost 4 hours to ride 25 miles.
Fork in the road
Empanadas
Eventually I made it to Champotón which is a bit bigger than the last couple of towns. There is lots of fishing and it is also a junction town for traffic heading across the Yucatan peninsula in the direction of Cancun. There were tons of seafood restaurants. I got checked into a small hotel across from the sea and had a delicious dinner of grilled giant shrimps. Yummy!
Freshly grilled shrimp
Tedious work repairing the nets
The next morning I started out of Champotón riding on a beautiful malecon. There were so many fishing boats and fisherman. They had already been out for the morning and many were busy fixing their nets. It was cool to watch. One fisherman had fallen asleep in his nets. I loved the whole scene.
Ceviche tostadas
Fisherman napping in his nets
The entire ride was fantastic. I stopped many times for pics and to fly the drone. By 12:30, I had gone around 25 miles when I found the sweet town of Seybaplaya. It was another 20 miles to Campeche but since there was a hotel here I decided to check it out. Unfortunately, they didn't have room for Myrtle. They suggested I take the toll road instead of the old highway because it has many dangerous curves. They said there isn't a shoulder and lots of truckers don't want to pay to take the toll road. Mexicans aren't typically alarmists and they rarely give me advice about the road ahead especially to say a road is dangerous. My gut told me this was sensible advice and to listen.
As I rode out of town, I quickly discovered I was on the old highway and needed to turn around. Just as I did, I saw a sign for another hotel and decided to check it out. This hotel was perfect. The hotel was very clean and comfortable and I got checked in for $16. It had everything I needed except for a toilet seat. Maybe I needed to pay $20 for a toilet seat? Do you think toilet seats are something that guests steal? The owners were a very nice couple who lived across the street. There was also a large garden courtyard with plenty of room for Myrtle.
I spent a very nice afternoon in Seybaplaya watching the fishermen and action around town. In the morning, since it was Sunday and traffic would be quieter, I decided to try the old highway. Just when I got to the exact same place where I turned around yesterday, a man stopped leaping out of his car to say I shouldn't go this way and strongly suggested I turn around to take the toll road. I felt like there was a force field at this spot in the road prohibiting me from going any further. I turned around and headed for the toll road. (Many days later I was told this road is called 'Pirate Alley' and many people are robbed here, not just cyclists.)
Seybaplaya from above
Drone selfie
There is no charge and the toll road has a good shoulder. Since it was Sunday, the road was quieter with less truck traffic. But wow, there were hills! My only serious hills of the trip, so far. Like 6-8% grades! As I started out there was a good breeze blowing but when I was climbing the hill blocked the wind. Temps were above 90f and I was sweating and sweating. And then when the breeze returned I knew I almost at the top. Going down I probably reached my fastest speeds of the trip as well.
Wonderful view for the day
Pretty soon I was approaching Campeche which is the capital of the state of Campeche. This is a bigger city that has a rich history with pirates. Campeche is called the walled city (amurallada) and was built by the Spanish in the 1500's. It is very colorful and I was looking forward to exploring. It was so hot I couldn't wait to find a hotel and get out of the sun!
Looks like a lovely place. Thanks for sharing.
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