Bryce to Zion

October 29 - 31, 2015

Garmin Info with maps

Bryce to Orderville, Utah

Wow did we have a tough decision to make. The weather forecast for leaving Bryce on Wednesday was expected to be very wet and cold. The forecast for Thursday was sunny and even colder. Sunny is always better for riding but Wednesday night it was going to be cold enough to snow. If we waited until Thursday to leave, the roads could be icy from all the rain during the day freezing and there could also be snow to deal with. Then again, maybe there wouldn't be any snow. What to do? Leave in the wet and cold or risk riding on ice.

Scenery on Highway 89

We decided to leave on Wednesday and ride in the rain hoping that, maybe, there wouldn't be as much rain as forecast. Tough decision but a decision had to be made. We got packed up and started out on a grey, cold, overcast morning in light drizzle. Not so bad. We didn't get very far when April and David pulled up in their motor home to ask if we wanted a ride. Maryann and I thought they were very thoughtful to offer but we decided to continue on. The ride out of Bryce was on the same bike path we took coming in. There was a bit of a climb and then a wonderfully fast downhill. The rains started in earnest on our ride down.  We were really wet when we got to the end of the path at Red Canyon.  By the time we got to Hwy 89 where we needed to turn south we were drenched to the bone and freezing cold. There's a small outpost/souvenir shop/motel at the corner and we pulled in to see if the motel had a laundry where we could quickly dry our clothes, especially our gloves and socks. The motel wasn't open and the shop had no heat. They also didn't sell gloves. We were given directions to another motel/RV park a few miles south that could have a laundry.  I haven't been this cold on a ride in a long time. There was an open sign on the road in front of the Riverside Resort but when we rolled up to the office it was obviously closed. Oh boy, did I get upset.  I started swearing up a storm. How could the people at the outpost tell us this place was open and there was an open sign on the road and it is closed?  I had a tantrum outside the office for a few minutes and then the door opened. The office woman had been working just on the other side of the door and probably heard the whole thing. Oh boy! I quickly apologized and explained that we were desperate to get out of the these wet clothes and asked if she could help. The best she could do was let us in and make some hot chocolate. Well...ok. 

Rainy Ride out of Bryce to Red Canyon

Plastic bags on our feet and over our hands

We sat down and enjoyed a delicious cup of hot chocolate with whipped cream on top but this didn't help us get out of the wet clothes. Both of us were wearing Sealzskin socks which are supposed to be waterproof. We took off our socks and realized our feet were, in fact, not wet just very cold. The woman gave us plastic bags to wear over our socks to protect them from the cold wind. She gave us another pair of bags to cover our gloves. I've done this before and it works. 

After thawing out a bit and finishing our cocoa we thanked the woman leaving some money on the counter and continued on. It was getting to be lunch time and we had no idea where we would find shelter to make a roadside meal. Lucky for us, a few miles on we spotted a Mexican restaurant and pulled in. We got there just in time. The restaurant was going to close for the season right after lunch. Ever grateful, we ordered and enjoyed a nice meal. By the time we finished, our hands and feet had warmed up. The rains continued but not quite so hard. Somewhere on this road, I pulled over to pee. There was a dirt road and I could walk a few steps for some privacy. With all the rain, the dirt had turned to thick mud and my feet sank. Oh my, what a mess! 2 steps in and that is as far as I could go. I had so much mud on my feet that I couldn't get clipped in again. That was not such a good idea. We had a long slow climb for many miles to the turn off for Cedar City. From there it was a fast downhill to Glendale, our destination for the day. Googlemaps lists lots of motels in Glendale but doesn't say if they are open. I figured something would be open for us. No, nothing was open. Not even one motel. Oh wow, it seems Utah is closing for the season. No point in getting upset. All we could do was keep going. We knew there was a Best Western at Orderville that would be open but hoped we could find something cheaper. Lucky for us, the Parkway Motel was still open and they had rooms for $55. We also met the young German couple riding HP Velotechnik recumbents again. They had stayed here for 3 nights to wait out the storm. Today was very emotional and eventful with big mileage. We got to the hotel after 54 miles just as the sun was setting and now we could get warm and dry out our clothes. I also had to hose off my shoes of thick mud before entering the room.

The next morning Maryann and I had to have a talk because I was having a big problem. Up to this point, we have been sharing hotel rooms when we aren't camping. This, of course, is a great way to reduce touring costs. Since the temperatures have been too low for camping we have been staying in hotels for many nights in a row.  Unfortunately, I am a very light sleeper and Maryann snores very loudly. Even though I use earplugs, I was seriously crabby from a lack of sleep. This morning I had had enough. This was simply too much for me to deal with. Maryann right away suggested we get separate hotel rooms but I was in a terrible mood and completely dismissed it. I was done. I suggested her sister, who lives in Ontario, California, pick her up from Las Vegas. We got packed up and made our way 3 miles to the Best Western and a recommended restaurant for a very quiet breakfast. Both of us were deep in thought.

We stopped here for espresso on the way to the Best Western restaurant.

Flintstone mobile outside the Rockstop

Zion Entrance

April and David had sent an email saying there is a tunnel to get into Zion that is narrow, long and very dark. Bikes are not allowed to be ridden through the tunnel. Since April and David were already camping at Zion, they offered to come pick us up. Fantastic! When they arrived the question was how to get the trikes into the motor home. This couldn't have been easier. I took the seat off my trike and we carried it right in. Maryann folder her Catrike to take up less room. Both trikes went in easily and we sat comfortably at the kitchen table watching the scenery unfold from a warm and dry RV. We stopped along the way to walk among the chimney rocks before the entrance to the park. It was a gorgeous day. 

April hiking to the chimneys

Walking in the chimneys

After getting our tents set up in the RV site, we all went for a bike ride through the park to the end of the road in Zion. The first few miles are on the Pa'rus bike trail. From there it was another 12 miles on the road. The only real rule about biking in Zion is you have to stop and pull over when the shuttle buses pass. The shuttle buses won't pass a moving bicycle. The scenery was fantastic and I took some video during the ride.  Wow was that a nice ride! By the time we returned to the campground the sun was setting and then April cooked up a delicious meal for us. David got a good fire going and we all told tall tales until it was time for sleep.

Zion bike path

The night was colder and the wind kicked up for a bit but I slept and felt much better in the morning. We went across the street to the Flanagan's hotel buffet for breakfast that was gourmet and very reasonably priced. Our plan for the day was to hike Angel's Landing. We made sure to take some food from the buffet for our packs. We were staying at a campground behind the Quality Inn in Springdale. After breakfast we got on the shuttle to the Entrance, paid our fees and then took another shuttle to The Grotto stop. 

Bike ride in Zion National Park

View from the scary hairpin on the Angel's Landing hike.

Camping in Zion

From below, the hike looks very technical and intimidating. I wasn't sure how far I would get. Little by little, I was able to continue walking. At one point, Maryann became frightened and backtracked. I, too, was wary but really wanted to see what the path looks like behind the giant rock. I didn't think I would make it much further. April and David had walked ahead and then I caught up to them while they were resting at the scariest hairpin turn overlooking the valley below.  I just kept going and going. Once the hike went behind the rock it wasn't scary anymore, just steep. The path surface was a very rough concrete and my footing felt secure. Pretty soon I was at the saddle on top of the giant rock. Wow, I couldn't believe it! The rest of the way to the very top was too steep and scary. After a few pics, I turned back. Getting up was one thing but I wasn't sure how the way back would be. I took it slow and the hike really wasn't as hard or scary as I had expected. I got down to the bottom and ran into the young German recumbent tourers I last saw at the Parkway Motel.  We chatted about the road ahead saying they were going to stay with a Warm Showers host, Bob, in St. George the next night. Well that was interesting because I think Maryann and I were also staying with a Warm Showers host named Bob the next night. Were we all staying at the same place? Not surprisingly, they are much faster walkers than I am and we said goodbye. I was pretty sure we would see each other on the road tomorrow.

Daniella and Stefan. Fun recumbent tourers from Germany we keep running into.

View from the Angel's Landing hike.

From behind the giant rock.

After the hike, Maryann and I made dinner and then we sat around the campfire. Later in the evening I asked April for advice about Maryann's snoring. She said the same thing Maryann said. Why not just get separate hotel rooms? April reminded me that I would be getting my own hotel room if I was touring solo so what would the harm be? Unless, of course, there was another reason to end the tour with Maryann. There really wasn't. Maryann has been a very nice touring companion. Aside from the snoring I really have no complaints. After another good night's rest I also saw that getting separate hotel rooms was an obvious solution to the problem. The next morning I talked to Maryann and she was very relieved I wanted to continue riding with her. And, I was too.