Thursday, October 25, 2018

Fantastic Summer in Portland and Upcoming Tour to Colombia and Ecuador



Drone flight over Echo Park Lake, Los Angeles
After another fantastic summer in Portland, I'm now turning my attention to the next trike tour. All summer I've been plotting where I should go and if I wanted to make changes to my gear. And, of course, I've made many changes. 

How to Pack Your Trike for an Airline Flight

Originally, I had planned to continue riding through Central America where I last off in Belize going through Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama. But there seems to be a lot of political upheaval at the moment and I decided to put that trip off until the situation improves. More than likely, I would have had a great time but going to South America seemed like a choice with less risk. I have also never been to South America.

This Saturday, I'll be flying to Bogota, Colombia. Why Bogota? The simple answer is there is a direct flight from Los Angeles and I really like direct flights especially when traveling with my trike. Bogotá is at 9,000 ft in elevation and I'll need some time to acclimate. I signed up with a Spanish school for 3 weeks where I'll be living with a family. Staying with a family in a foreign country is highly recommended to speed up learning a language. The school found me a room with a private bathroom that is walking distance from the school. I was given a choice to have the family provide meals as well. I asked to have breakfast every morning. Language schools really make travel easy. They take care of everything. They always offer apartments to rent or the chance to stay with a local family. All I had to do was ask and someone will pick me up at the airport. Language schools also offer excursions to explore the area. There will be outings to events, restaurants, museums or nature areas with more opportunity to practice Spanish as well as tours to local towns. I've also heard people travel to learn other things like tango dancing and photography that offer all-inclusive services. It's nice to be around people that you have something in common with whether learning a language or dance or photography.

Riding through the meadow on the Bank/Vernonia trail
I was such a beginner when I studied in Guanajuato last year that I didn't feel comfortable being with a family. When you don't have enough vocabulary and understanding of a language, trying to speak is stressful and quite uncomfortable. I'm sure I would have learned more if I had stayed with a family but I felt like I needed to study on my own first. What was interesting is the school in Mexico put me in private classes almost exclusively. They didn't charge me extra which was nice but I think I would have learned more being with other students. I doubt I'll ever be fluent but I would like to be comfortable speaking Spanish. I think knowing Spanish will make for a much richer travel experience and it could be safer as well. Over the summer, I continued to study on my own using an online course and I think studying in Bogota will be very helpful. I'm also thinking to stop for a couple of weeks in Medellin to study more at another school. Medellin is supposed to be a very beautiful city to explore. I've also heard that Colombian Spanish is easier to understand. The people speak slower and clearer than other countries. This will be very helpful for me.

Rough Route Idea
I've plotted a rough route for my next tour of about 3200 miles over 6 months. Colombia and Ecuador are both extremely mountainous and I am quite nervous about the climbing. The most climbing I have ever done in a day is 3700 ft and I think there will be many mountain passes in Colombia that are more that 5,000 ft. I'll be bring everything for camping because I am such a slow climber. I'm expecting there will be many days I won't make it to a town that has hotels. If there is a hotel that is where you will find me at the end of the day but I'm prepared to camp besides firehouses, churches or ask to camp in someone's yard. So far, I've never felt safe stealth or wild camping. It is something I would like to do and I think it offers the ultimate freedom. When I tour, my only real worry is to find a safe place to spend the night. It sure would be a great feeling to trust I can always find a place to camp and be able to set up a tent anywhere. Maybe, someday, I'll get to the that place of trust as well.

At the moment, my idea is to end in Quito, Ecuador. Depending on how much time I have I may do a bigger loop in Ecuador or even take a trip to the Galapagos Islands. If I feel rushed to do the islands I can save it for my tour next year which I expect will begin in Quito.

So those are my rough plans, we will see how it all turns out. 



Oversized baggage handler taking care of Myrtle before my flight to Los Angeles

Rolling Myrtle to the ticket counter of Alaska Airlines with new Ortlieb yellow panniers on top
Over the summer, as I prepared for this upcoming tour to Colombia, I made some changes to my gear. I bought a new set of Ortlieb panniers which are the same as my last set but in yellow. Ortlieb discontinued this color. I had planned to buy a set when my current set needed replacing. Ortlieb's decision to only carry the black color in this recumbent style pannier meant I had to replace my set earlier than intended. No problem, my friend Dave helped me sell the old pair which off-set the costs nicely. 

Myrtle arriving in style at Tater TOT in Idaho last June

Testing the zoom on my new travel camera - Panasonic Lumix ZS200, view of Mt St. Helen's and Portland


Night View from the house in Portland

Every summer for the last 8 years I have been housesitting in a beautiful house for a friend in Portland who also has a home in France. She spends every winter in Portland and when she returns to France that's when I end my tours and go to Portland. This has been a wonderful arrangement for both of us. I already know I'll be able to return next summer but after that I'm not sure. My friend is in her mid 70's and I expect the day will come when she can no longer make the trip to France and will return to Portland full time. With this in mind, I'm starting to think about what it would mean and what I will do if I don't have the house in Portland to return to for the summer. My 1st reaction is that I would tour with Myrtle full-time. What changes would be required to my gear if I started to tour full-time? This is something that I've been thinking about for awhile and would like to try some day. There aren't many gear changes I need to make for this transition to full-time touring. 


As I was thinking about it, there are really only 3 gear considerations for touring full-time. Where am I going to tour full-time, would I need to plan for winter and summer camping conditions and the 3rd consideration is to decide about cooking.  


Top of Dobson Pass at Tater TOT in Idaho with trikers Christine and Dawn



Primus Stove Initial Observations

Right now, I only tour in the winter which limits my destinations because I don't like being cold. If I could tour in the summer I would spend more time in the US probably starting out across the TransAm bike route. I could also spend time exploring the UK, Europe and Scandinavia as well as countries like Japan and Taiwan during warmer times of the year. Since hotels in the US are so expensive I would probably do more camping and cooking.  In the US, using canisters for cooking is easy. Even Walmart carries them but this isn't true for much of the world. For instance, these handy canisters are not available in Colombia, or anywhere in South America, so I decided to invest in a Primus multi fuel stove. The Primus allows for use with a canister but also all types of gasoline and white gas which is available anywhere in the world.  I also bought a 1.1 liter MSR pot that the stove fits into which can also be used as a pan.


Camping at Big Eddie Country park on the way to the Recumbent Retreat
For me, one of the hardest conditions to prepare for is camping in hot as well as cold weather. Often, along the coast, temperatures can be hot and humid whereas in the mountains, at high elevations, temperatures can be cold. What kind of sleeping bag do you use to be comfortable in both extremes? I decided to go with 2 sleeping bags. I bought a Mountain Hardware 50 degree bag with a hood and another 20 degree Zpacks sleeping bag without a hood. My objective is to be comfortable in temperatures around the freezing mark.  These bags both have stuff sacks and pack very small. If temperatures are even colder I can put the 20 degree bag inside the 50 degree bag for more warmth. I also use a sleeping bag liner, mostly to keep my bag clean, and the liner will also add some warmth. On this trip I'll be riding above 10,000 feet where it could be very cold and at sea level along the Caribbean where conditions will be hot and humid. I will be able to put the bags to the test. 


Gorge in Eastern Oregon
Another thing I have been interested in is improving how I get my water. In the past, I have always bought bottled water. It's convenient and safe but also a lot of plastic waste. After lots of research, I decided to invest in a Grayl water purifier and filter. While I was researching I discovered there are 2 issues with water cleaners. One is purifying for viruses and other is removing particles. There aren't many options for one device that filters particles and purifies for viruses. Many of the options involve more than one bag and hoses which filter from a dirty bag to another clean bag. The Grayl doesn't have any hoses. It is essentially a water bottle with a cartridge that both filters and purifies. It is a fairly lightweight option for having clean drinking water anywhere. There are 2 issues with the Grayl. It only cleans 1/2 liter at a time and each cartridge will only filter 150 liters before needing to be replaced. It's unclear how easy I could buy another cartridge outside the US, so,  for my 6 month trip I'll be bringing an extra cartridge. The cartridge doesn't weigh much but it is 'an extra thing'. I've always bought water and for this trip I'm going to see how convenient it is to use the Grayl. Maybe I'll shrink my carbon footprint just a bit as well.

These gear additions mean I'll be carrying more weight. I think I'll have about 10 lbs more than I had on my tour of Mexico where I only took a sleeping bag and pad. 

With Brandon riding to the Recumbent Retreat

Lighted Bikes Parade at the Recumbent Retreat

Photoshoot at the Recumbent Retreat

Aside from planning for my next tour, I did a lot of rides with friends. I went to Tater Tot in Idaho in June for a week. I did many group rides around Portland including Pedalpalooza bike festival, RecumbentPDX shop rides, OHPV club rides on the Banks/Vernonia and a camping trip out to Big Eddie County Park. The highlight of my summer is riding out to the Recumbent Retreat. This was my 13th year attending. I have always ridden there and feel very fortunate to live close enough to do this fabulous ride. I also had family many friends visit. I had recumbent friends from Ohio stay, friends I know from Mexico, friends and family visit from California and other close friends from Chicago and Montana. It was super fun to see everyone and spend some quality time. I also took a trip to Eastern Oregon to explore as well as a couple of quick visits to Los Angeles.

Pedalpalooza kick-off ride

20,000 cyclists on the Bridge Pedal Ride across 8 bridges in Portland

During this tour, I plan is to update my blog weekly with a written description of my rides and experiences. At the top of each post will be the Garmin maps so you can see where I went with all the stats. I'll also attempt to do 3 short videos with photos, videos and drone footage. 

Sunset Ride at the Recumbent Retreat

A year ago, I started a YouTube Channel to do tutorials, gear reviews, trike specific info and mostly highlight my rides. My friend, Matt Galat, made me a new logo and intro for my videos which has really added a more professional look. Here are a few of the videos. Thanks to everyone for watching and subscribing. It's easy and you can get notifications of new videos when they are release. 

Sticker card with the new logo to give out on my tour

I think this tour is going to be especially beautiful and very fun for drone flying. Colombia is a favorite destination for cycle tourers and I've been looking forward to going for many years.

Thanks for following the continuing adventures of Myrtle the Turtle and I'll see y'all next week in Bogotá.


Tuesday, June 19, 2018

Tizimin, Vallalodid and Back to Cancun

GPS Info and Map: 


Rio Lagartos lagoon is exceptionally beautiful and I hope to return some day. The lagoon is peaceful with many birds and large flocks of flamingos to enjoy. I stayed at a fabulous hotel with a wonderful view of the water too. Rio Lagartos doesn't have a bank or ATM so, if you come, make sure to bring enough cash. Luckily, there were a few restaurants that take credit cards. The hotel needed cash for my 3 night stay which didn't leave me much left over but, in the end I had enough. I found a French couple that were hiring a boat with a guide and asked if I could join them. This brought the cost down for all of us. 

The road to Tizimin, like much of the Yucatan, is incredibly flat. This is hurricane country and all the trees are short all growing to the same height. My ride was very hot with few places to stop and take a break. Tizimin is a beef town and I rode passed many cattle ranches. In Tizimin, I stayed at the same hotel as the last time. The people are very nice, the room is clean and the wifi is pretty good. I walked to the mercado for tacos. Tacos all over Mexico are different. In Tizimin, tacos are served with roasted potatoes. Yummy!


Sunset at Rio Lagartos

Church in the morning sky


Feeling sadness leaving Tizimin video


The rain felt sooo good
My final ride of this tour was into Valladolid where I settled into a lovely hotel. $40 gets you a beautiful room that would cost $150 in the US with all the amenities. The weather on this tour has been hot since I started but the last couple of weeks have been extra hot. Even though I was sad the tour was coming to a close the heat was getting to be too much to carry on any further.  There was one more point of interest to check off my list and I made plans to visit the Mayan Ruins of Chichen Itza. There are many tours to choose from but I took the local bus that goes every hour from Vallodolid to Merida. The bus dropped me right in the parking lot of the ruins. There was a section of the parking chocked full of tour buses. This place was crazy busy. The ruins are exceptional and it was easy to see why so many people were visiting.  I also spent a day exploring Vallodolid before taking a bus, with Myrtle, back to Cancun to prepare for my flight home.


Main Temple at Chichen Itza

Jaguar head carving in the pelota courta

Backside of temple

1000 columns

Video of my visit to Chichen Itza on a ridiculously hot day

Colorful mercado

At 20 pesos to the USD, this food is very inexpensive

Smiles at the mercado

Rambutan

Last video of the tour

San Servicio, Valladolid

4 tacos and a watermelon juice for $2, oh baby baby!

Ex-convent San Bernardino
Ex-convent from the air

Cenote across the street from my hotel in Valladolid

Good colors in Valladolid
I stayed at the same hotel on my last night in Mexico as my first. The hotel is directly across the street from the bus station where I easily took a bus to the airport with Myrtle folded and ready for my flight. On my e-ticket, my flight was leaving from terminal 4. The bus dropped me there but I quickly learned that AeroMexico flights depart from terminal 2. I waited for the airport shuttle and got a ride to Terminal 2. My flight is actually a Delta flight and left from terminal 3. Luckily, I arrived to the airport early and had tipped the shuttle guy very well the 1st time. He was excited to see me again and made the 2 shuttle ride stress-free. Delta had no problem with the trike and didn't even charge me extra. I had a uneventful 5-hour flight to Los Angeles where a friend picked me up. 

Another tour has come to an end. I'll be spending my summer in Portland. There are already many rides planned. Pedalpalooza is a month long bike festival every June in Portland and there are hundreds of rides to join in included the world's biggest World Naked Bike Ride. I'll be at TOT in Idaho during that ride, darn! And then I always ride to the Recumbent Retreat every September. This is my 13th year riding there and it is the 20th year of the event.

Alright everyone, thanks for following along! There will be a few updates over the summer as I decide where my next tour will be.



Sunday, June 17, 2018

Coastal Roads of the Yucatan Peninsula

GPS info and map:




This is an area of the Yucatan that I've been looking forward to seeing since the beginning of my trip. The great astroid that resulted in killing off the dinosaurs crashed in this area of the Yucatan. The astroid made a huge crater that measured 93 miles in diameter and 12 miles deep. It is known as the Chicxulub crater and I rode through this small beach community. There isn't any place you can go to actually see the astroid or crater. There are many cenotes, natural swimming holes, that are said to be a result of the ancient astroid. The cenotes are deep fresh water and are really beautiful in a natural setting.  

Laguna Rosada video with a drone shot I'm proud of

Rio Lagartos


Long flat roads of the Yucatan

Playing with the drone on the road to Tizimin


In beautiful Rio Lagartos, I went on a wonderful boat tour of the lagoon to see large flocks of flamingos.  Flamingos are skittish birds and we had to keep a good distance in the boat. Our driver showed many local birds and other animals including a crocodile resting in a mangrove. I couldn't believe how close he brought the boat. My camera doesn't have much zoom and I was taking pictures within a foot of the croc!

Croc in the water

Rio Lagartos flamingos


Salt flats




Fishing boats in Rio Lagartos

On the boat in Rio Lagartos lagoon


Friday, June 15, 2018

Exciting and Historic Cities of Campeche and Merida




GPS info and map: Sebaplaya to Merida

I made a big change for this tour by adding video. These videos are typically less than 5 minutes and my idea was to add another layer to my story telling to give a different view of my travels. Video brings a more intimate and immediate view of what's happening. I've been using a Removu K1 video camera with a 3-axis gimbal and a Mavic Air drone as well as photos to make the videos. Video truly is a time consuming process but I've been enjoying the process. There's been a steep learning curve but, slowly and surprisingly, I'm figuring it out. I had to learn new video editing software (Final Cut Pro X), the Removu K1 camera, Mavic Air drone as well as how to tell a story through video. Unfortunately, what has been falling behind are my blog updates. I also enjoy doing these blog updates but they take me at least a couple of hours to complete. As a compromise, I going to make a change to how I do the future blog updates. In the past, I have always written up a detailed page about my rides, added GPS info and photos and then published when the page is totally complete. What I'm going to try now is to publish pages with GPS info, photos and video 1st and then go back later to fill in the details. Let me know what you think of this format.

On the Road to Campeche
Also, my Garmin bit the dust and so I'm using my phone to upload ride data to Ride With GPS. My problem is I tend to forget to stop and save the ride ending up with lots of extra miles as I walk around town or take busses to explore points of interest in neighboring towns. I'll probably replace my Garmin when I return to the US this summer but until then ....

I had a shortish ride from Sebaplaya to Campeche and found a hotel in the old walled city. Campeche is a UNESCO heritage city with a rich history of pirates.

Campeche on a quiet Sunday morning
Myrtle resting in the dining room at the hotel

My hotel in Campeche, $18/night in the historic area

Cathedral de San Francisco

Old Walled City Campeche is famous for

Statue showing a meeting of religion, Spaniards and indigenous peoples

Yellow Church in Old Town Campeche

Colorful historic Campeche

Templo de San Jose has a lighthouse in one of the steeples

Templo de San Jose at night



I took a side trip by bus to the near by Mayan ruins of Edzna.  I was able to take a local bus for less than $2 for the 30 minute ride. The bus dropped me right at the entrance to the site. These ruins date back to 400 AD. They were discovered in 1907 but the ruins weren't excavated until 1986. It is a fairly small site with about 10 buildings. Holy moly, it was hot walking around!
Edzna Mayan Ruins





Main Temple
Path at Edzna

Pirates and the Road to Campeche


Hotter 'n Hell in Campeche


Since there weren't any hotels within a reasonable distance of Campeche, I decided to take a bus from Campeche to Merida. Taking the bus continues to be a wonderful experience in Mexico. Buses seems to go everywhere, they are very inexpensive, comfortable and there is always plenty of room for the trike. No one has ever questioned me about bringing the trike on a bus. Someone is usually available to help me load the trike into the undercarriage and then, again, when I get to my destination. Having the bus as an option for transport has made travel stress free and taken a lot of pressure off me to make sure I find a safe place to spend the night. I love Mexico.


Myrtle's Maintenance Menace in Merida


No alcohol in public!
Shoe Repair
Gustavo expertly fixed my brakes
Street Art
Corner building with ceramic tile

Close up of ceramic tile.

Plaza Mayor Merida